These are sights and scenes repeated across countries and continents, many of them with colourful histories. Vancouver’s Chinatown is a designated national historic site, a 130-year-old mini-Hong Kong where the smell of freshly baked egg tarts and pineapple buns wafts down the street; while Melbourne claims the longest major continuous Chinese settlement in the Western world, taking root in Australia’s gold-rush days of the 1850s.
And indeed, subsequent generations of immigrants came from farther afield, bringing with them their own regional cuisines and expanding well beyond Chinatowns. The Sydney suburb of Ashfield is a slice of Shanghai, where homesick migrants rub elbows with Anglo-Australians feasting on xiaolongbao, pan-fried dumplings and thick strands of stir-fried noodles. Flushing, in the borough of Queens, has surpassed Manhattan as New York’s main Chinatown. Here, you can find numbing-spicy Sichuan hotpot or delicacies such as Xinjiang-style breads and skewers of cumin-coated grilled lamb.
One feature of Chinese cuisine is its versatility, adapting depending on local conditions, ingredients and the tastes of residents in other parts of the world. Some elements remained timeless: but others shifted and evolved.